On Thursday, January 6th, 2022, a single snowflake fell within the city of Leavenworth. It was soon joined by many brothers and sisters, and then some first cousins – enough within a few hours for a respectable showing of snowfall which would brighten the day of any traveler to our Bavarian village. But the party didn’t stop there; second cousins thrice removed showed up, distant relatives from the North Pole showed up, and, by the end of it all, the actual National Guard showed up. I am being serious about this last part, as one of the primary challenges of receiving four feet of snow in 24 hours is – where is it all supposed to go?
What started with unmitigated glee turned into a slight panic as I realized that we would not be moving our car anytime soon. Upon reflection, this panic subsided as I realized “Where was I supposed to go anyways?”
This experience perfectly encapsulates why winter is the best season in Leavenworth. It’s breathtakingly gorgeous, cozy in all the right ways, and contains all the activities you need. And even if you are trapped for a day or two (which is extremely unlikely), you will treasure the rare feeling of time standing still in a marvelous and magical place, and you will never forget the feeling.
Terra and I have been fortunate to call this magical place home for six years now. And while Summer, Fall, and Spring have captured our hearts for various reasons, Winter stands alone as the absolute best time to visit our town. Perhaps it’s 15 years of living in the dreary Seattle area. Perhaps it’s that feeling of being wrapped in all the coziness. Perhaps it’s just the fluffy stuff and all the cool things you can do in it. Or maybe it’s watching our puppies bound through it with joy. It’s probably all these things. Please read on to find out our favorite things about the best time of the year in Leavenworth.
Cross-country skiing and Other Outdoor Activities
Cross-country skiing is the single best activity we have found during our time here. It’s a great excuse to spend time outdoors, has a relatively easy learning curve, and the options are so plentiful that you’re able to have a completely different experience each time you go out. Importantly and unfortunately, as of December 5th of 2025 there is not enough snow for any of these to be open, although that could change any day.
General Tips
- You’ll need to decide whether you want to ski ‘classic’ or ‘skate’ style. With classic you are moving forward in tracks that have been created by grooming machines, while with skate the leg motion is side to side and you utilize the non-track side of the groomed trail. Skate is definitely faster but also requires a more work and a higher level of fitness. If you are just starting and don’t have a strong opinion either way, I’d start with classic. And don’t worry, you can get a plenty good workout with classic as well.
- Whether you decide on skate or classic, I would absolutely start with a lesson for your first time. If starting in the immediate Leavenworth area, contact the Leavenworth Winter Sports Club and they will get you set up.
- All ski days are not created equal. And I’ll go a step further – all times of the day are not created equal. All the serious trail systems keep their ski conditions updated on a daily basis. They will tell you 1) which trails are open and how skiable they are, and 2) when during the day you should go in order to enjoy the best possible skiing for that day. There are many times when it’s advantageous to go earlier or later depending on temperature, the consistency of the snow, whether or not it’s actively snowing, etc etc.
- One final thing to note is the length of season, which of the list below is almost always going to be longest at Stevens Pass, then Plain/Nason Ridge/Lake Wenatchee, and then, finally, Leavenworth.
- Don’t force the ski. If it’s freezing raining don’t go. If it’s too windy don’t go. If it’s snowing too heavily during the day, don’t go as the tracks will be covered up and you’ll be slowly marching around with a lot of extra exertion. There are enough things to do in Leavenworth, so if skiing turns out to not be on the table, stay flexible and pursue some of the other activities I’ll list below!
Where to Go in Leavenworth
Icicle River Trails – If you have the time or energy to go cross country skiing one time while you are in the area, go here. You can rent equipment and take lessons on site. The views down the Enchantments are unbelievable, and the trail takes you through pristine forest and by the Icicle River. This is the best place in Leavenworth for beginners to start, but there is also enough length and interesting terrain to entertain all levels.
Ski Hill – This is a must go, but only if you are feeling confident. I wouldn’t go here your very first time as it is hilly and fast. It’s very fun, but only if you spend most of your time upright. Ski Hill has a lot of other activities as well, including tubing, downhill skiing, and snowshoeing. But while there are a million people doing those activities, you can have the forest virtually to yourself as you swoosh around on your skis. And then afterwards you can sit outdoors on the deck at the Lodge and have a beer while you watch everyone doing those activities, knowing that you’ve probably gotten the better workout!
Leavenworth Golf Course – The terrain is beautiful here and you will often run into a herd of deer, but for us the experience is a distant third behind the first two spots I’ve listed. Most of the trail could be tackled by a beginner, but there are some tricky spots that require some more intermediate skills. Note that there is a sledding hill here as well.
Where to Go Outside Leavenworth
Nason Ridge (via Kahler Glen) – You’ll park at Kahler Glen (there are a couple of parking areas near the Wildflour restaurant), and one option is to simply ski around the golf course. But if you want more of a half-day adventure, connect to the Nason Ridge trail, and keep going until you don’t want to go further. This is a fantastically beautiful area with a trail that goes on forever. We’ve never made it to the top, but we’ve heard there is a ski hut on the way.
Plain – This cross-country skiing network is anything but “plain”. Buy passes (and schedule lessons if you want) at the Plain Hardware Store (which is in and of itself a worthy stop), and then start skiing. The spine of the trail system goes all the way from Plain up to Thousand Trails, with a ton of side trails along the way for all levels. SO MUCH FUN!
Stevens Pass Nordic Center – It took us awhile to warm up to this place, perhaps because it seems a bit limiting for a beginner. But once we graduated to intermediate skiers, we were able to explore off the main trail, and wow – they are awesome. Just don’t go when it’s windy – we’ve made that mistake and it is not a pleasant experience. There are rentals here as well.
Lake Wenatchee – Lake Wenatchee is one of our favorite places on Earth. It is fantastically gorgeous and accessible and has recreation options in any season. Even if you don’t ski, it’s worth it to make the drive, get out of your car for 10 minutes, and stare at the scene. But it’s even better if you do bring your skis, as there are pretty robust trail systems at both park entrances. The trail system from the South Entrance connects to the Kahler/Nason system as well.
Before we move on, it should be noted that there are plenty of other winter sports options in case cross-country skiing is not your sport of choice. Here is a very quick run-down of what we know about these options:
- Downhill skiing/snowboarding – There are two places worth noting – Mission Ridge at Wenatchee and Stevens Pass. If you are coming to Leavenworth from Seattle, I’d check out Mission Ridge since Stevens Pass if more accessible from your home base. We have never skied at either place, but our impression from feedback is that Mission Ridge has some great runs and fantastic views. Stevens has these as well, but also has huge crowds, especially on weekends.
- Sledding/Tubing – I’ve mentioned the sledding and tubing options above that exist at Ski Hill and the Leavenworth Golf Course. In my mind, however, the place to sled is Enchantment Park. There are a number of different slopes to use, and as it’s unmanaged it is also free.
- Walking/Snowshoeing – Most, if not all, of the places above have a snowshoeing option. I would also recommend a couple more spots:
- Drive as far as you can down Icicle Road. Park where the road ends, and then start walking, skiing, or snowshoeing up the path. The Icicle is a gem and you really can’t go wrong no matter how you decide to explore it.
- Walk from the Enchantment Park to downtown via Blackbird Island. It is so picturesque in the winter, and while it may not be the most direct route, you won’t even notice the extra steps as you journey through Narnia.
Restaurants – From Dawn to Dusk
If you are a fan of Joy Adventuring, you know that more than anything Terra and I are foodies at heart – and stomach – as shown by blogs such as this one. And after you’ve exhausted yourselves in the outdoors, what better way to spend your evenings than eating a delicious meal or sipping on a well-earned beer? And here is a secret for you – while the Bavarian options are delicious, there are a lot more options in Leavenworth and the surrounding area if schnitzel is not your jam. Here are a few that we’ve discovered in our time here.
The unfortunate thing about a list like this is that it will invariably leave some great businesses off, so take this with a grain of salt – or better yet, a helping of butter. We don’t own the corner on opinions, but the places below have all gone above and beyond to win our hearts as local residents, and we owe it to them to tell you about it!
Breakfast/Coffee
A quick note on almost any breakfast or coffee options. If you come on a busy day/time of year, expect to experience a decent amount of waiting. This is due to the fact that 1) these places are exceptionally yummy, and 2) we probably don’t have enough breakfast spots to satisfy the demand. So before you go out, pretend like you are travelling through Bavaria with nothing pressing to do, as you will be rewarded and may even make some new friends in line!
- Bavarian Bagel – We went to New York City and I somehow failed at ordering bagels (documented in this blog). But there is no opportunity for this at this newcomer on the Leavenworth scene, as they have an awesome menu for breakfast and lunch. But if you do want to go rogue, they can support you there as well. I have no idea how they make these bagels so delicious.
- J5 Coffee – There are two J5 locations in town with slightly different hours/open days. The most important thing to know is that, to my knowledge, neither are open on Sunday mornings. In any case, from our very first days in Leavenworth it’s clear that these people take their coffee seriously. If you are here for the holidays, get an eggnog latte or peppermint mocha and thank me later. Actually just thank them.
- Little Red’s – This small but mighty spot also has a location in Wenatchee near Pybus Market. They deliver consistently high quality coffee with exceptionally friendly service. In our experience it’s one of the few places where you can park and expect to have a coffee in hand in under 15 minutes.
- Argonaut Coffee & Biscuits – The coffee is very good here, but don’t forget the ‘biscuits’ part of their name – because, let me tell you, the biscuits are good enough that they deserve equal billing with the coffee. The interior is quite small, though there is a nice outdoor seating area if you are so inclined. The wait can get rather large, and you might consider calling ahead on your order, although because they are so busy this only works some of the time. And hot off the presses, Argonaut has opened a second location called Lupine Market & Cafe. This is very timely indeed for winter as Lupine is located right next to the entrance of the Icicle cross-country ski and snowshoe trail system. What a great addition!
- Bear Bear – The owners of this place take their food seriously. Their menu is a bit eclectic, but the common thread that brings it together is ‘yumminess’. Fried chicken & waffles – OMG. Shakshuka-Ish – yes please. Crispy Chicken Sando – wow! And on and on…this place rocks. And not to get to far ahead of myself, but the owners are the same folks that own our favorite dinner place in town.
- The Big Y Cafe – If you want more of a greasy spoon experience that’s out of the Leavenworth hubbub, try out this spot. And whatever you do, don’t miss the incredible, hand-made pies which I’ve been told are made lovingly by a very special lady who has been doing this for many, many years.
Lunch/Dinner
- Wildflour – This is a key part of a can’t miss winter experience, which involves checking out Lake Wenatchee and cross-country skiing (as detailed above) either in Plain, Lake Wenatchee, or Nason Ridge/Kahler Glen. You can taste the quality of the ingredients, from the seasonally farmed and locally foraged mushrooms to the Ceasar salad with blackened salmon to ANY of the other options. It’s not unusual for the chef to come out and ask how your meal was, which to me is a sign of a chef who takes his craft seriously. The cocktails (and mocktails) are great. The wine list contains a really nice selection, including some delicious Italian reds. And they have igloos that you can rent! Just don’t set your coat next to the warmer as it may burn a hole through your coat (this may have happened to me).
- Old World Chophouse – You may have figured this out already, but this is our favorite dinner place with owners who also happen to own our favorite breakfast place, Bear Bear. If you are steak person, you will be blown away by the tenderness, the flavor, and the myriad of options. I am not even really a ‘steak person’ and I absolutely crave their filets. Everything else is amazing too, from starters such as lettuce wraps and smoked oysters, moving along through the steak (and seafood options), and then finishing with a delicious and unique dessert called “Pebbles Parfait”.
- Rudloof’s – I’m not going to pretend like you come to Leavenworth for pizza. But if you have a pizza craving, Rudloof’s always answers the call. Of course, they (like everyone else) does not do delivery, so you’re going to have to work for your pizza.
- Rhein Haus – This is the place to go if you want some good Bavarian food and drink in a comfortable outdoor space. Choose a firepit table or line up along the edge where you overlook the bustling town of Leavenworth – a great spot to people-watch.
- Munchen Haus – There is some disagreement amongst locals on whether you should go here or the Leavenworth Sausage Garden for your bratwurst. We’ll choose Munchen Haus every time, as along with the a great brat and an expansive mustard bar, it also has really nice ambiance.
- Visconti’s – I’m including Visconti’s on this list specifically for the Happy Hour, as it’s really the only place I can think of with a quality HH menu.
Drinks/Snacks
- Bushel & Bee – This place has such a great and unique vibe. It has a rotating list of beers (bushel) and ciders (bee), but what sets this place apart is the bottle shop portion. They have every kind of cider you can imagine from all over the world. They also have the best selection of non-alcoholic drinks in town, which I appreciate as someone who is not currently drinking alcohol. Bring your dogs, meet your friends, and play one of their many board games while you enjoy your libations.
- Whistlepunk – Last year, I had a scoop of Whistlepunk, and then shortly thereafter had some famous Molly Moon’s ice cream in Seattle. With 100% certainty I can tell you the Whistlepunk scoop was better. I have no idea how they blend such glorious chunks of goodness (chocolate, blueberries, etc) in such high quantities in a pint of ice cream. I don’t care if it’s mid-January, you should check this place out.
- Icicle Brewing Company – This is the quintessential spot to go and grab a drink in town. Whether sitting in the spectacular interior, or sitting around a firepit table outside, there is no better spot to take in the afternoon and strike up a conversation with a stranger. The food options, while somewhat limited, are pretty good as well. I should also mention that if you are in town during the week, there is always a great activity going on in the evening. We like to head over on a Tuesday night and catch some live music.
- Silvara – On a nice day, there is not many places more magical than this winery. When town is crazy, Silvara is pretty calm. The wine is good, and this is saying a lot from a couple of European wine snobs. Sit outside around one of their firepits while taking in the beauty of the area.
- Yodelin – I left Yodelin out on my original post only because I had fully intended on writing up a summer version of my Leavenworth blog. In the summer, the view and ambience of Yodelin’s outside deck is absolutely fantastic. But as the summer blog has yet to transpire, I’m including Yodelin here as it has some great bone broth soups for a cold winter day after a fun day outside.
Stores & Experiences
- Enchantment Mobile Suana – This is the only recommendation in this entire blog that we haven’t tried yet. But the pictures look amazing, and it seems like it would be a great option after a day on the slopes. Give it a try and let me know what you think!
- The Cheesemonger’s Shop – They have an absolutely amazing selection of cheeses, which you can sample to your heart’s content.
- The Plant Ally – If you like plants, this is definitely your store. And beyond that, there is a coffee bar which, in addition to coffee, has some really atypical drinks as well as an assortment of non-alcoholic options. It’s got a great vibe!
- A Book for all Seasons – After you get some coffee at J5 or an ice cream at Wistlepunk, be sure to take a stroll through this bookstore. In addition to all the best sellers you would expect, there is a great section on local history, hiking, etc.
- Awake Bodies – Pilates has been a revelation for us, and there is no better place to try it out than Awake Bodies in Leavenworth. Sign up for one of many offerings there and you will not regret it!
- Inner Waters I.V. – Perhaps I.V. therapy isn’t on top of your list when visiting a town. But in this case, I think it should be. The owner (Morgan) has some great blends whether you are wanting an energy boost so that you can play in the mountains or need some support after having a drink too many the night before. And while you are receiving the IV you’re also getting a true spa experience that engages all five senses. A real treasure!
- Sage Mountain Natural Foods – We frequent this place at least once a week for its fantastic selection of natural food and drink. If you check it out, make sure to grab one of the cookies that are baked fresh each day.
- Dan’s Food Market – The diversity and quality of produce at Dan’s is unparalleled in the area. Walking into Dan’s, you feel like you are engaging with the community. A very special place.
- Schocolate – Chocolate with an S – yes please! There is really not much more to say.
- The Bubblery – This is a really great store for natural skincare products.
Live Music!
Something that sets Leavenworth apart from other similar-sized town is its embarrassment of riches as far as musical talent goes. Everywhere you turn, on almost every night, there are multiple talented artists playing at different venues. While there are a lot of great artists, here are a few that we’ve really enjoyed over the years: Sergio, Seth, Bandits of the Animal Kingdom, and Elaine Eagle.
Well, there you have it. I haven’t even touched on some of the more famous Leavenworth landmarks, such as the Leavenworth Reindeer Farm. Please drop a note once you’ve tried any of these places and let us know how it went. Look out our window, the magical season is once again upon us!
